In new dwellings attend to:

  • Ceiling
  • Walls
  • Underfloor
  • Mid floor ceilings
  • Inter-room sound proofing
  • Hot water cylinders
  • Pipe work

In existing dwellings attend to:

  • Ceilings
  • Underfloor
  • Walls if accessible
  • Hot water cylinders
  • Pipe work

Salmac have all the products you require. Diagram showing the main areas of a home that should be insulated.


Properly insulated homes can use 30 – 50% less energy than homes without insulation. Lining your “thermal envelope” – adding materials that don’t readily allow heat to leak through your walls, ceilings, floors, from around your home’s foundations and its ductwork – saves energy by keeping heat in during the winter and keeping heat out during the summer.

The effectiveness of a piece of insulation is measured by its R-value. The R-value in insulation designates its resistance to heat flow. The higher the R-value, the greater the insulating ability – the more effective it is. Generally speaking, each time you double the R-value of insulation, you cut your conduction heat loss in that area in half.

Adding insulation to an uninsulated attic is the most cost-effective, energy-saving measure you can do. Most older houses were built with little or no insulation. For our regional climate we would recommend R4.0 for ceilings, R2.6 to R2.8 for walls and a good high density friction fit for underfloor.

Putting It In Place

You can greatly increase the energy efficiency and comfort of a home by installing insulation with an R-value higher than the minimum requirements. But to truly enjoy the benefits of insulation, it must be installed correctly. Compressing it or leaving gaps through which air can flow can cut insulation’s effectiveness in half.

When insulating your attic, it’s important not to clog the attic vents under the eaves. Keep air circulating freely above the insulation by installing baffles (typically a piece of fiberglass batt placed several inches away from the vent).

For fire safety, keep insulation clear of heat producing devices such as doorbell transformers and recessed lights, flues or vents from furnaces, water heaters, fireplaces, and exhaust fans.

  1. In unfinished attic spaces, insulate between the ceiling joists to seal off living spaces below.*
  2. In finished attic rooms with our without dormers, insulate:
    • a. between the studs of “knee” walls,
    • b. between the studs and rafters of exterior walls, and
    • c. ceilings with cold spaces above.
  3. All exterior walls, including:
    • a. walls between living spaces and unheated garages or storage areas,
    • b. foundation walls above ground level, and ,
    • c. foundation walls in heated basements (foundation can be insulated on inside or outside of wall).
  4. Floors above cold spaces, such as vented crawl spaces and unheated garages, and:
    • a. any portion of the floor in a room that is cantilevered beyond the exterior wall below,
    • b. slab floors built directly on the ground,** and
    • c. foundation walls of crawl spaces and perimeter plates.
    • d. Add storm windows as recommended.

*Well-insulated attics, crawl spaces, storage areas, and other closed cavities should be adequately ventilated to prevent excessive moisture buildup.

**Slab on grade is almost always insulated, in accordance with building codes, when the house is constructed.